The Nakasendo Trail

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September 4, 2024

Thanks to the recent FX hit Shōgun, interest in feudal Japan has reached an all-time high. Walk back in time on the Nakasendo Trail, a 17th-century route that samurai once used to travel between Kyoto and present-day Tokyo. Along the route, several well-preserved post towns offer a glimpse back into the Edo Period, and majestic mountain landscapes serve as the backdrop to traditional timber buildings and cobblestone roads. Two of the most popular and picturesque post towns are Magome and Tsumago, but it’s also worth venturing to some of the others like Narai and Kiso-Fukushima. Hiking at least a section of the route is the best way to get a sense of this piece of history. You can visit centuries-old rest stops for tea—or even umeshu (plum wine)—along the way. If you want to take a more leisurely approach, a local train also stops at some of these idyllic villages.

Opened in 2021, Byaku Narai is the only luxury boutique hotel that’s set directly along the Nakasendo Trail. Spread across four meticulously restored machiya (traditional wood homes) in its namesake town, you’ll find 16 individually designed rooms with sumptuous touches like self-filling tubs or open-air baths, locally made lacquerware, and spacious courtyards with manicured gardens. The on-site Kura restaurant is also not to be missed, where the menu highlights the abundance of the surrounding Kiso Valley. If you’re traveling with a larger group and looking for an exclusive-use villa that includes experiences and a private chef, Zenagi, located in a rural area of Nagiso, can accommodate up to 12 guests.

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